Hybrid won't go to READY? Test the 12-volt battery first

Book a check soon

A hybrid that will not go to READY very often has a flat or worn 12-volt battery, not a failed traction battery. If the car is dead and the dashboard is dim, have the 12-volt battery tested before anything else.

Can you keep driving?

Not until it goes to READY. If a jump start brings it back, have the 12-volt battery tested before you rely on the car again.

View over the steering wheel of a lit instrument panel at dusk

What it means

The 12-volt battery is an ordinary small battery that wakes the car up and powers its control units. If it is flat or worn, the car may refuse to go to READY at all, even with a healthy traction battery.

Instrument cluster lit up behind the steering wheel, with warning lamps showing
A panel that lights up means the car is awake. A dim or dark one on a car that will not wake up points at the 12-volt battery.

How a hybrid keeps the 12-volt battery charged

A hybrid usually has no conventional alternator. A DC/DC converter keeps the 12-volt battery charged from the high-voltage side.

A failing traction battery shows up differently, with reduced electric assist, warning lights and reduced performance.

Common causes

  • A flat or worn 12-volt battery
  • A worn 12-volt battery that cold weather has finally exposed
  • A dim dashboard on a car that will not wake up, which points at the 12-volt battery
  • The traction battery, although when it fails it shows as reduced electric assist, warning lights and lower performance

What to do now

  1. Look at the dashboard when you press the start button. A dim dashboard on a dead car points at the 12-volt battery.
  2. Have the 12-volt battery tested first.
  3. Find where it sits in the manual: under the hood, under a trunk floor panel or beneath a seat, depending on the model.
  4. Jump-start only the 12-volt system, and only at the connection points the manual gives. On many hybrids those are not the battery posts.
  5. Test or replace the battery following the manual's procedure, which on some hybrids differs from a conventional car.
  6. If reaching the battery means removing a panel that exposes orange cabling, stop there.
Technician holding a tester on the posts of a 12-volt battery under the hood
Having the 12-volt battery tested is the first step, and it settles the question before anyone looks at the traction battery.

12-volt battery or traction battery?

  • The car will not go to READY and the dashboard is dim or dark: the 12-volt battery, so have it tested first.
  • The car goes to READY but runs less on electricity: traction battery capacity or charging.
  • Reduced electric assist, warning lights and lower performance: the traction battery or hybrid system, so have it diagnosed.

What people often get wrong

That a hybrid which will not start needs a new hybrid battery. Test the 12-volt battery before anyone condemns the traction battery.

When the car must go to a workshop

If the car still will not go to READY with a healthy 12-volt battery, or the hybrid system light is on, it needs a hybrid-qualified technician. The traction battery, the power electronics and the orange cabling are never an owner job.

Read next

This page is general information and does not replace a professional assessment. Symbols, codes and behaviour vary between makes. Always check the handbook for your own car.

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